(ARA) - If you've been in an auto dealer's showroom recently, you won't be surprised to learn that the average price of a new car is approaching $30,000. While there's no getting around the price you have to pay for a new automobile, there are plenty of things you can do to make sure you won't have to make the same investment again anytime soon.

No matter what you drive - sports car, family sedan, pick-up, or mini-van - when you go in for repairs or service, you want the job done right. The following advice should take much of the guesswork out of finding a good repair establishment.

Don't just drop your vehicle off at the nearest establishment and hope for the best. That's not choosing a shop, that's merely gambling.

I. Preliminaries

Read your owner's manual to become familiar with your vehicle and follow the manufacturer's suggested service schedule.

Start shopping for a repair facility before you need one; you can make better decisions when you are not rushed or in a panic.

Ask friends and associates for recommendations; even in this high-tech era, old-fashioned word of mouth reputation is valuable.

Check with your local consumer organization(s) regarding the reputation of the business. Inquire about complaints and the rate of resolution of complaints.

If possible, arrange for alternate transportation in advance so you will not feel forced to choose a shop solely on location.

Once you choose a repair shop, start off with a minor job; if you are pleased, trust them with more complicated repairs later.

II. At the Shop

Look for a neat, well organized facility, with vehicles in the parking lot equal in value to your own and modern equipment in the service bays.

Professionally run establishments will have a courteous, helpful staff. The service writer should be willing to answer all of your questions.

Feel free to ask for the names of a few customers. Call them.

All policies (labor rates, guarantees, methods of payment, etc.) should be posted and/or explained to your satisfaction.

Ask if the shop customarily handles your vehicle make and model. Some facilities specialize.

Ask if the shop usually does your type of repair, especially if you need major work.

Look for signs of professionalism in the customer service area: civic and community service awards, membership in the Better Business Bureau, AAA-Approved Auto Repair status, customer service awards.

Look for evidence of qualified technicians, such as trade school diplomas, certificates of advanced course work, and ASE certifications - a national standard of technician competence.

The backbone of any shop is the competence of its technicians.

III. Follow-Up

Keep good records; keep all paperwork.

Reward good service with repeat business. It is mutually beneficial to you and the shop owner to establish a relationship.

If the service was not all you expected, don't rush to another shop. Discuss the problem with the service manager or owner. Give the business a chance to resolve the problem. Reputable shops value customer feedback and will make a sincere effort to keep your business.

Article written by ase.com

http://www.ase.com/News---Events/Publications/Glove-Box-Tips/Choosing-the-Right-Repair-Shop.aspx

Regardless of what kind of vehicle you drive, or how old the vehicle is there are several simple things you can do to slow its depreciation and maintain its value.

Essentials for Teen Safety and Smart Ownership

When a teenager gets a driver license, it signifies freedom and the lure of the open road. But with this newfound freedom comes a host of new situations and possible problems that most teen drivers have never encountered before. It's a good idea to review these scenarios with new drivers in your family, and discuss how to handle them before they happen for real.

From traffic stops to road rage, here's a primer on what you need to tell teen drivers as they take to the roads.

1. What to do when you're stopped by a police officer
Safely pull to the side of the road, turn off your car, roll down the window and keep your hands visible. Don't make any sudden moves or argue with the officer. Do your arguing in traffic court.

For more information, read "Avoiding Traffic Tickets."

2. How to deal with a flat tire
Pull completely off the road, even if it means destroying the tire. Call roadside assistance and let that person change the tire. If you have a spare (many cars now only have an inflation kit) and know how to change the tire, make sure you are out of traffic and in plain sight of oncoming traffic before changing it yourself.

For more information, read "How To Change a Flat Tire" and "The Disappearing Spare Tire."

3. What to do when the "check engine" light comes on
If there is any change in the car's performance, any mechanical noises, smoke from the tailpipe or electrical smells, stop the car and call for assistance. If there are none of these symptoms, take the car to a dealer and let them diagnose the problem. However, if you just bought gas, the light might just be indicating that the gas cap is loose. Tighten the cap and continue driving. The light should go off on its own.

For more information, read "What Your Check Engine Light Is Telling You."

4. How to deal with a friend who is about to drive under the influence
Don't get in the car. Do anything not to drive with an intoxicated person, and that includes calling your parents for a lift or paying for a taxi. Your next move is to try to prevent your drunken friend from hurting themselves or someone else.

For more information, read "Stop Your Friend from Getting a DUI."

5. How to drive safely while talking on a cell phone
Most states ban all cell phone use by novice drivers, so be sure you know if these provisions apply where you live. If it's permissible to use a cell, always use a hands-free device so you can keep your hands on the wheel and your eyes on the road. Learn how to pair your phone with the car's Bluetooth system. Don't even think about texting while driving (no, not even at stoplights).

For more information, read "Texting While Driving: Targeted for Extinction" and "Driven to Distraction: Cell Phones in the Car."

6. How to get an honest quote for an automotive repair
Search Edmunds.com's Car Maintenance Guide or the Web to get an estimate for how much the repair should cost. Search online for garages with high customer ratings and ask friends for recommended garages. Call the garage and ask for a ballpark estimate and let the garage know you are contacting other places for their best quote. Use your intuition to make the final decision on whom to trust.

For more information, read "Avoid Getting Ripped off on Repairs and Maintenance."

7. How to buy a new car
Don't just wander onto a dealership's car lot. Instead, contact the Internet department of several dealerships to get multiple quotes and compare these with Edmunds.com's True Market Value^®price for any car you're interested in. Make sure you check incentives and rebates. Follow up with phone calls to the Internet managers of these dealerships to verify the terms of their offers. Finally, ask the dealership to deliver the car to your home or office to avoid the hard sell in the finance and insurance office.

For more information, read our "Quick Guide to Buying a Car."

8. What to do after an auto accident
If the car is drivable and there are no serious injuries, turn on your flashers and pull safely out of traffic. Call the police to report the accident. Exchange insurance information with the other driver but refrain from discussing the accident and who is at fault. Make notes and use your cell phone's camera to take pictures of the cars involved.

For more information, read "What To Do After a Car Accident."

9. How to drive in rain and snow
Reduce your speed and leave more room between your vehicle and those in front of you. Understand how to handle skids. If possible, practice reacting to skidding in safe conditions, such as a snow-covered empty parking lot. Understand that a car might hydroplane on a rain puddle on the road and learn how to react to driving with reduced traction and visibility.

For more information, read "How to Drive in the Snow" and "Tips and Techniques for Driving in Rain."

10. How to avoid road rage situations
Understand the severe consequences to you, your car and your driving record when minor disagreements escalate to life-threatening situations. When someone offends you, take a deep breath and know that your anger will dissolve in minutes. Don't anger other drivers by cutting them off or tailgating. If you've inadvertently angered another driver, don't get drawn into interacting with them. Ignore them or, if necessary, change your route. Finally, repeat this phrase: It's just not worth it.

Article written by www.edmunds.com

http://www.edmunds.com/driving-tips/10-things-teens-should-know-about-cars-and-driving.html

 Perhaps the first frosts have already coated your windshield, forcing you to dig out the scraper. As you adjust to the coming chill, give a thought to your ride, and check out these nine tips that will keep your car rolling smoothly through winter's challenges.

SEE ALSO: Our Slide Show of 9 Winter Car Maintenance Tips

Don't make compost in your car

As you tackle fall's bounty on your lawn, leave some energy for removing the leaves that find their way into your vehicle.

Leaves, twigs and other organic matter can cause havoc with gutters on your house -- and the equivalent on your car. When debris builds up in areas of your car where water is supposed to flow out, you can get leaks or corrosion.

The air plenum near the windshield is a classic spot where this can happen.

If you have a sunroof, open it up and poke around in there, too. Sunroofs have drains that flow water that sneaks past the seals down to the ground. Leaf gunk in there can make for wet headliners or worse.

Less common, but more problematic: Animals may make nests in the engine compartment or airbox. You may need a mechanic and an animal trapper to fully solve this problem

Consider winter tires

So-called "all-season" tires have been on the market for decades. Coupled with front-wheel-drive and anti-skid systems, they have allowed many folks to avoid mounting a true snow tire for the winter months. But there are two trends in tires you should be aware of:

1) Styling priorities have led to manufacturers fitting wider, low-profile tires on a variety of cars. Wide and low profile, on balance, makes a tire worse in the snow. Pressures to improve tire fuel economy have also worked against the snow utility of all-seasons.

2) Winter tires have improved their behavior from the era of knobby snow tires. New tread patterns and rubber compounds make them quieter on dry roads, yet even more effective on frozen stuff.

If you choose to go with winter tires, note that vendors such as The Tire Rack and Discount Tire Direct offer packages with the tires already mounted on a new set of wheels. Switching the entire wheel for the winter is more cost-effective than having two sets of tires mounted on your existing wheels twice a year.

Wipers for winter

Fog, snow and rain will cut down your visibility in winter.

Check your wiper blades, which have a lifespan of about a year. If your car doesn't have the newer "beam blade" style wipers, consider a pair, especially for the winter months. The beam style blades don't have an external spring to freeze up.

When snow or other freezing precipitation threaten, pop your wipers up when you park so they're not touching the windshield. This little trick will make it easier to scrape your windshield and reduce the chance that you burn out the wiper motor by having them turn on while the blades are frozen in place.

Is your battery juiced?

Winter puts more stress on your battery, particularly if you park your car outdoors.

Avoid the sinking feeling of hearing nothing when you hit the ignition with a proactive check of your battery and charging system now. Repair shops don't usually charge very much to load-test your battery, and some car-parts stores will do it for free.

If you find out your battery's going south, you can replace it at your convenience, instead of being at the mercy of whomever your dead car's been towed to. Note that some big-box stores such as Costco offer a good price on batteries for those of you willing to change one yourself (not usually all that hard, though batteries are heavy.) This is many people's first thought when it comes to winter car care. "Flush and fill" promotional signs abound at service stations as the weather cools.

But chances are good your engine coolant (a better name for it) is just fine for the winter ahead. If you've followed your car's service schedule regularly, give this pitch a pass. Most newer cars have been fitted with coolants that can last as long as five years or 150,000 miles. Read your owner's manual.

If you've missed a service interval or have another reason to doubt your coolant, go ahead and have it "flushed and filled." Just make sure your mechanic uses a compatible coolant to refill your car. Some coolants, such as Prestone's Extended Life, work for any car.

If your car has moved to a much colder climate and you're concerned that your coolant might not be up to the deep freeze, you can check its effectiveness with a simple, under-$10 tester from the car-parts store.

Check your tire pressure

Here are two good reasons to get down there with the gauge and unscrew the valve caps as the weather cools:

1) Tires lose a pound of pressure for every drop of 10 degrees Fahrenheit.

2) An underinflated tire won't "bite" through snow down to the pavement as well as one at pressure. It's similar to hydroplaning on water -- and just as dangerous.

Don't forget to put the valve caps back on when you're done. Letting in moisture, which then freezes, could let the valve core leak out air.

Survival kit (of some sort)

Everyone should have a space blanket in the car, tucked in the glove compartment or some other storage space in reach of the driver.

The most complete survival kit in the world won't do a bit of good if you're upside down in a car you can't get out of and the kit's in the trunk.

The shiny space blanket's ability to keep you warm could be a lifesaver -- and it takes up virtually no space and costs less than $10.

Next things we'd add: 

- Whistle 
- Plastic bag for gathering snow for water 
- Plumber's candle & lighter 
- Single-edged razor blade (cut up your upholstery for insulation) 
- Empty metal soup can (for melting snow with the candle) 

You can -- and perhaps should -- keep going (some people suggest packing a wordy novel). The more rural and remote your roads, the more you'll want.

Wax your lights

Okay, we admit it's a little detail, but in winter's gloom and short days, every last lumen you can squeeze out of your headlamps is going to improve your safety.

Here's an easy two-minute drill: Make sure the headlamps are clean of dirt, rub car wax (any type will do) on the lamps, let it dry and buff it off. And then apply a second coat. For bonus points, do the taillights.

The slippery surface you leave behind will be less likely to build up an "icicle" coat when road slush refreezes on your car -- and will make it easier to remove it if it does.

Article written by http://community.nasdaq.com

We would all love to think our mechanic is the best trained, most knowledgeable auto professional around — but the truth is, no one person can be prepared to take on the demands of every make and model of vehicle in existence. We're all human and we all make mistakes. With complex new technologies being implemented with each new model year, staying ahead of the game is getting harder and harder. Fortunately, most shops are happy to right whatever wrong you discover — as long as you act quickly and speak up.

1. Forgetting the Shims

Have you had your vehicle in a shop recently for brake work and then noticed a little more squeaking than you're used to after driving off? Odds are your mechanic forgot to include two tiny pieces of metal that adhere to the back of your brake pads. While not essential to making your vehicle stop safely, these shims do cut down on the amount of noise generated by minute vibrations in the brake pad. If you think your brakes are louder than they should be, check with the shop. Most garages will take care of the problem at no extra charge and get you back on the road squeak-free in no time.

Bing: Brake Shims

2. Skipping the Filter

Everybody loves a deal, especially when it comes to routine maintenance. If you're one of the many who have been lured by impossibly economical oil changes, make sure the job includes a new oil filter. An oil filter is essential to keeping your engine's lubricant free of harmful contaminants. Unfortunately, if you believe your oil filter hasn't been changed, you'll have to take the vehicle to another shop and ask them to do the job correctly. An unchanged oil filter should constitute immediate grounds for a change of mechanic, since it could lead to premature engine failure, lower fuel economy and costly repairs down the road.

Read:  10 Tips to Avoid Auto Repair Rip-Offs

3. The Wrong Transmission Fluid

It's amazing how many different types of transmissions there are on the road right now. Even more staggering are the differences in lubricant those gearboxes require. Automatic transmission fluid comes in a variety of weights (thicknesses), and some manual gearboxes simply require motor oil for lubrication. Even more confusing, some manual transmissions use fluid specifically designed for automatics. Needless to say, it's easy for a mechanic to get turned around when it comes to changing your vehicle's transmission fluid. If you notice your car or truck shifting harder than usual or grinding as you shift gears, immediately turn around and take it back to the shop. Insist on a full flush and fill, because using the wrong fluid will cause expensive damage in a hurry.

Watch Video:  Types of Transmissions

4. Improperly Sized Belts

Most shops keep a wide selection of belts on hand to suit the vast majority of vehicles on the road. It's impossible for a garage to be prepared for every car that comes cruising onto the lift, and a mechanic may be tempted to use a belt that is similarly sized to the one called for by the manufacturer. Since belt types vary based not just on size but also profile, shape and type of material, this can lead to problems in a hurry. Using a belt not designed for your vehicle can lead to undue stress on your accessory pulleys — things like the alternator, air conditioner compressor and power-steering pump. It can also make lots of noise. If your belts are squeaking and they were just replaced, odds are you don't have the right belt for your car. Turn around and get the right equipment as soon as possible.

Has your mechanic ever made a mistake? If so, tell us how the problem was fixed.

5. The Wrong Hose

As a car gets older, manufacturers are less and less likely to continue manufacturing replacement parts. When that happens, the aftermarket industry usually steps in to take up the slack, though fit and quality may suffer as a result. This is especially true with radiator hoses. Most aftermarket companies make one hose that can be cut and bent to fit a variety of vehicles. Unfortunately, this results in added stress on plastic-frame radiators and leaks from improper fit. If you see a leak from your brand-new hose, take the vehicle back to the shop and demonstrate the problem. The mechanic should be able to solve the issue by readjusting the hose or ordering a replacement.

Watch Video:  Costly High-Tech Car Repairs

6. The Wrong Thermostat

Your vehicle's thermostat is essential to maintaining proper engine operating temperature. Thermostats come in many different temperature settings, and it's easy for a mechanic to install the wrong part in your vehicle. A thermostat that runs too cool can cause the engine's oil to be thicker and not flow as quickly to important parts, while a thermostat that runs too hot can put undue stress on your vehicle's head gaskets and other seals. If your vehicle's temperature gauge seems to be too high or too low, ask the mechanic what temperature thermostat was installed. If it's outside the factory recommendations, ask to have it replaced immediately.

Bing: Car Thermostats

7. Too-Thin Rotors

If you've had your vehicle in for brake service recently, your mechanic may have asked if you would like your rotors turned. Turning essentially means shaving a small amount of metal from the rotor to take out any imperfections in the surface, which will improve brake pedal feel and reduce vibrations. Unfortunately, if your rotors have been turned too many times they will be too thin for safe use. The next time you come to a hard stop in traffic, the rotors are likely to warp or even crack under duress. If you have a vibration in your steering wheel every time you come to a stop, take the vehicle back to the shop and ask for new rotors instead.

Bing: Turning Rotors

8. Forgetting the Differential Fluid

It's easy to forget to replace the fluid in a vehicle's rear differential — and that's especially true for all-wheel-drive vehicles. While most differentials don't require attention as often as the engine or transmission, it's essential to stay on top of the factory-recommended service interval. Failure to do so can cause permanent damage to the differential, sticking you with a hefty repair bill. Simply ask your mechanic to make sure the fluid is taken care of when the owner's manual calls for the service.

Watch Video:  Check Your Fluids

9. Remanufactured Equipment

Some shops may offer you the option of going with less expensive remanufactured equipment to replace parts such as starters and alternators. These are parts that were on another vehicle at one point, then removed and recycled by a third-party company. In many cases, these parts carry a lifetime or extended warranty, but may be more prone to failure than replacement equipment from the original manufacturer. If you've replaced a part on your vehicle with remanufactured equipment and the problem resurfaces, you probably have a defective unit. Not all recyclers are equal — do some research, and then take the car back to the shop to have the part replaced immediately.

Watch Video:  Parts Shortage Leaving Cars Idle

10. Wrong Tire Size

Having tires of the correct size on your vehicle is important in more than one way. Using the wrong size tires can cause your car or truck to handle and stop differently than it did from the factory, and it can also result in your speedometer being off by 10 mph or more. If you notice you're moving faster or slower than you used to, check to make sure the tires your mechanic selected for your vehicle are the correct size recommended by the factory. If they aren't, you might be stuck with them until you need new tires again.

Has your mechanic ever made a mistake? If so, tell us how the problem was fixed.

Article written by MSN Autos

Some of us have driven for years without knowing how to open the hood of our vehicle. Others aren’t satisfied until they’ve taken everything apart just to see how a car works.

In between lie the rest of us, relying on trusted techs for most car maintenance but still knowing how to check the oil or replace an air filter. Regardless of our interest level, all of us should be able to complete certain tasks.

Will you win a medal if you can ace them all? No, but you’ll be better off if you break down on a lonely road. And you’ll definitely feel less intimidated when your service advisor tells you your EGR is on the fritz or your oxygen sensors are not reacting.

You’ll also keep more money in your wallet.

Some of our tips may sound insultingly simple, but read anyway. You’ll be surprised by what you learn.

1. How to Fill the Tank

That’s not necessarily as straighforward as you might think. Check your owner’s manual for your engine’s octane number. Some vehicles set off check engine lights if the wrong grade is used. Avoid rounding up the price on the pump after the first stop-click of the handle. Putting too much fuel in a tank can cause problems with its venting system as the cool gasoline from the station’s underground storage tank warms up and expands in your tank. Avoid the smell of fuel on your hands by carrying a small box of disposable gloves in the car. Remember the number one cause for activating the check engine light is failure to put back the gas cap properly. With older cars, check the fuel tank filler neck for rust at the lip where the gas cap seals. A little steel wool can avoid a visit to the shop or a failed emission’s test.

2. How to Check the Tire Pressure

This is a money-saving task. Get a good quality tire pressure gauge (some of the best cost less than $20). Check the pressure on all tires at least once a month and at least every second fuel fill-up in winter. Check the tires cold which means after the car has been parked for several hours. The owner’s manual or the sticker on the driver’s door or door jamb will tell you correct pressures, not the sidewall on the tire. Most vehicles with tire pressure sensing systems have the sensors build into the valve stems. If any excess moisture gets into the sensor, it will cause the valve to seize and that could cost $100 to repair. Correct tire pressures can improve fuel economy by 10 percent.

3. How to Change a Flat Tire

I know that’s why we have roadside assistance. But you can save a lot of time waiting for a service truck if you do it yourself. Don’t wait to practice until you are at the side of a busy road. Try a dry-run in the safety of your own driveway.

Have you heard of locking wheel nut? These specially designed anti-theft devices replace one regular wheel nut on each wheel with one that will only turn with a unique key. Your car should have a set and you’ll need it to remove the lock nut.

Lifting a car with its jack on loose gravel or a sloping surface is asking for trouble. The safest way to jack up a car is to ensure it can roll slightly forward or backward to keep the jack perpendicular to the ground instead of rising on an angle. Never try to change a flat unless your vehicle is well away from traffic lanes. In that case, you may want to wait for that service truck.

4. How to Check the Oil and Other Fluids

Hate the idea of wiping off an oily dipstick? Check your engine’s oil level before starting up in the morning. If the vehicle is parked on a relatively level grade, the dipstick will reveal a very accurate reading without having to wipe it off and reinsert a second time. Just about every vehicle has transparent or translucent containers for brake fluid, engine coolant and windshield washer fluid. So a visual check is all that’s needed. Never remove a pressurized coolant cap when the engine is still warm. The resulting eruption of hot antifreeze can cause serious burns. Most vehicles no longer have automatic transmission dipsticks. If yours does, check your owner’s manual for how to check the level. Most require the engine to be running and fully warmed up for this reading. If your brake fluid is well below the normal line and there are no leaks, your brake linings are probably worn to replacement level.

5. How to Change the Air Filter

This is almost always a tool-free event with a few quick-release latches on a plastic box (see your owners manual). Check your filter every other month, more frequently if you drive on gravel roads. A dirty air filter can rob your engine — and your wallet — of up to 20 percent of your fuel economy.

Article written by www.50plus.com

Article written by carcare.org

To survive a tire blowout, pretend you're the bad guy in a police chase: Push the gas and drive straight ahead. The shotgun-blast noise of a tire blowout makes most law-abiding drivers do exactly the wrong thing: attempt to slow down quickly and get off the road. With a rear-tire failure, any turning at high speed will likely result in a crash.

I've taught hundreds of drivers how to correctly handle a tire blowout: I sat in the passenger seat and exploded a gaping hole in the tire with plastic explosive. Not one lost control. Here's how they did it.

If a tire blows:

• Squeeze the gas pedal for a couple of seconds. This puts you in control of the car and directs the car straight down the road. It also prevents you from committing the mortal sins of braking and turning. After a couple of seconds, gently and smoothly release the accelerator pedal. The drag force of a completely flat tire is so potent that pushing the gas will not allow the vehicle to go faster.
• Most importantly, drive straight down your lane. Keep your feet away from the brake (or clutch).
• Allow the car to coast down to as slow a speed as is safe (30 mph is good). Engage your turn signal and gently turn toward the shoulder of the road that's on the same side as the blown tire: This lessens your chance of losing control and will make the tire change safer. If the situation requires, you may ever so lightly squeeze the brakes.

Almost all highway blowouts and tread separations occur with the car traveling in a straight line on a very hot day at high speeds with an underinflated tire. The repeated flexing of an underinflated tire causes the failure. Check your tire pressures!

Article written by Edmunds.com

Joint effort includes PSA featuring characters from popular animated series for children, kids' traffic safety pledge, web-based tools for parents

WASHINGTON -- The U.S. Department of Transportation's National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) and popular animated series Chuggington today announced a new partnership to teach children how to be safe in and around cars. The nationwide traffic safety campaign is geared specifically towards children from the ages of 2 to 7 and includes a public service announcement featuring characters from the show, a kid-focused safety pledge and downloadable tips and activities for parents and caregivers to use with children.

"This exciting partnership with Chuggington will help us bring our traffic safety message to young children and parents alike," said U.S. Transportation Secretary Ray LaHood. "Educating children at an early age about the importance of wearing bicycle helmets, looking both ways when crossing the street and buckling up leads to a lifetime of good traffic safety habits."

Motor vehicle crashes continue to be the leading cause of death for children, with 1,314 fatalities and 179,000 injuries to those 14 and younger in 2009. In 2007, an estimated 262 fatalities and 115,000 injuries to children 14 and younger occurred from pedestrian incidents involving children playing in or around motor vehicles. The new partnership unveiled today combines NHTSA's safety guidelines for pedestrians, school buses, bikes and car seat use with Chuggington's characters to reach parents and children.

"Chuggington's characters learn important life lessons in every episode of the show and often earn badges as rewards for appropriate behavior," said Dick Rothkopf, chairman of Ludorum, the creators of the show. "The 'Think Safe, Ride Safe, Be Safe!' traffic safety pledge and badge is based on this concept. We hope that children will be excited to learn the rules of the road while they interact with Chuggington's characters and earn their ‘official' Chuggington Traffic Safety badges."

Today's announcement at Harriet Tubman Elementary School coincides with National Child Passenger Safety Week and comes on the heels of a recent survey by Safe Kids USA showing there's still room for improvement for parents installing child safety seats. Earlier this year, NHTSA released revised guidelines encouraging parents to keep their children in rear-facing child seats as long as possible up to the height and weight specifications of the seat.

"We already know that child seats save lives and help keep our kids safe, but parents and caregivers need to know how to properly install and use them," said NHTSA Administrator David Strickland. "That's why, together with our safety partners, we encourage parents to choose the right seat for their child's size and weight and to have it checked at one of the thousands of free safety seat inspection stations set up across the country for National Seat Check Saturday."

More than 30,000 child passenger safety technicians nationwide are participating in Child Passenger Safety Week from September 18 to 24. The week-long effort, which culminates in National Seat Check Saturday on September 24, includes both English -- and at many locations -- Spanish-speaking technicians who are available to answer questions and help install child safety seats. Parents should follow the federal government's latest guidelines for selecting the appropriate type of child restraint for children through age 12 and should always read the owner's manual for installation instructions for their child seat and vehicle.

To access the Chuggington kids pledge and online tools, visit www.chuggington.com/safety.

Article written by www.nhtsa.gov.

Visit the NHTSA-Chuggington page at www.nhtsa.gov/parents.

 

October is National Car Care Month, and AAA is warning drivers to watch out for auto repair ripoff schemes that less-than-reputable mechanics. Last year, the Better Business Bureau received nearly 13,000 complaints against auto mechanics. Among the warning signs of a ripoff: bad attitudes towards customer service, suspiciously low-priced deals on parts, and multiple charges for repairs to fix the same part or problem.

 

TOP TEN CAR REPAIR RIPOFFS TO WATCH OUT FOR 

 

1. Flushing the engine or transmission, when it is not called for in the normal maintenance schedule.  Usually, engines do not need to be flushed other than for routine coolant replacement, and the transmission only should be flushed according to the recommendations in your owner’s manual.

 

2. Some shops assume you need the car’s severe-use maintenance service, which typically involves changing filters and fluids more frequently than the regular schedule recommends. Again, check your owner’s manual for the recommended service intervals. If you do a lot of stop-and-go driving and short trips, you may indeed need more frequent oil changes – but again, check first. 

 

3. Does the mechanic keep charging you to replace different parts to solve the same problem? He is probably having trouble diagnosing your car. Ask the mechanic to refund the cost of the first (probably unnecessary) repair. Multiple failures of the same part or even in the same area are rare.

 

4. Is the shop replacing the same part over and over?  Watch for shoddy workmanship or a poor-quality part.  Sometimes particular car models are prone to certain kinds of problems. Check www.nhtsa.dot.gov for automaker service bulletins and consumer complaints. If you find you need to return over and over you need a new mechanic! 

 

5. If you’re being told that only dealerships can perform maintenance – sorry, it’s not true. Legally, you can have maintenance performed by any mechanic without affecting your warranty. Just make sure your mechanic uses the correct fluids specified for your vehicle’s model, and keep thorough records in case of a warranty claim. The only dealership-required service is warranty-related repairs and recalls.

 

6. Lifetime muffler promise?  Be leery.  Some car repair chains may offer free muffler replacements, but it gets you into their shop where they try to sell you expensive exhaust system repairs. However, a good repair shop may offer a lifetime warranty on certain parts such as alternators and water pumps, because those parts should last the life of your vehicle. 

 

7. Some shops might fraudulently recommend work that doesn’t need to be done at all.  Ask them to physically show you and demonstrate the problem part.  For example, they should show you a broken fan belt, or turn on your headlights to prove that a light is out.

 

8. Suspiciously cheap brake repair deals.  Repair shops can’t make money on a $50 brake pad replacement – not unless they use very poor quality parts.  It’s likely an excuse to get you to pay for new rotors or other parts you may not need. 

 

9. Bad attitudes.  Does the shop care only about making a quick buck, or do they want to develop a long-term business relationship with you?  A good shop will be honest that you don’t need a repair this time around, because they believe you’ll trust them enough to come back when your vehicle really does need help.

 

10. The old bait-and-switch.  A common scam is to charge you for high-quality parts but actually install cheaper ones.  Ask to see the new parts before the shop installs them.  With tires, check the information on the sidewall. Still, without expert knowledge, it may be difficult for you to know for sure – this is why it’s so important to find a trustworthy repair shop.

 

Above all, don’t pay for repairs until you’re satisfied. You have every right to make sure you’re getting what you’re paying for.

 

One in four American drivers could not pay for a car repair of $2,000 if faced with one today, according to the results of a survey released in August by AAA. More than half of American drivers also said they are holding onto their older vehicle because they do not want the financial burden of a new one. And, one quarter of drivers admitted to neglecting repairs and maintenance on their vehicles in the past 12 months due to the economic climate, which AAA Automotive experts say can greatly increase the likelihood of their car needing a costly, major repair.  

 

“Economic conditions have taken their toll on many Americans resulting in them neglecting their cars and leaving them at increased risk for very expensive repair bills,” says Lardear.  “So it’s more important than ever to find a car repair shop that you trust.”

 

Article written by WMGD.COM

Preventative maintenance now can help ensure worry-free driving this winter

The vacations are over, the kids are back in school and cooler evenings have begun. Take advantage of the lull to prepare your vehicle for the winter ahead, advise the pros and the non-profit National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE). Breakdowns, never convenient, can be dangerous in cold weather period.

The following tips from ASE should give parent and student alike a road map to fall car care.

First things first

Read your owner’s manual and follow the manufacturer’s recommended service schedules. There are usually two schedules listed: normal and severe.

Engine Performance

Have engine driveability problems (hard starts, rough idling, stalling, diminished power, etc.) corrected at a good repair shop. Cold weather will make existing problems worse. Replace dirty filtersair, fuel, PCV, etc.

Fuel

Put a bottle of fuel de-icer in your tank once a month to help keep moisture from freezing in the fuel line. Note, too, that a gas tank that’s kept filled helps prevent moisture from forming in the first place.

Oil

Change your oil and oil filter as specified in your manual more often (every 3,000 miles or so) if your driving is mostly stop-and-go or consists of frequent short trips.

Cooling System

The cooling system should be flushed and refilled as recommended. The level, condition, and concentration of the coolant should be checked periodically. (A 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and water is usually recommended.) If you’re doing your own work, allow the radiator to cool down completely before removing the cap. (Newer vehicles have coolant reservoirs.) The tightness and condition of drive belts, clamps, and hoses should be checked by a certified auto technician.

Heater/Defroster

The heater and defroster must be in good working condition for passenger comfort and driver visibility.

Windshield Wipers

Replace old blades. If your climate is harsh, purchase rubber-clad (winter) blades to fight ice build-up. Stock up on windshield washer solvent you’ll be surprised how much you use. Carry an ice-scraper.

Battery

The only accurate way to detect a weak battery is with professional equipment. But do-it-yourselfers can do routine maintenance. Scrape away corrosion from posts and cable connections; clean all surfaces; re-tighten all connections. If battery caps are removable, check fluid level monthly.

A word of caution:

Be sure to avoid contact with corrosive deposits and battery acid. Wear eye protection and rubber gloves. Note too that removal of cables can cause damage or loss of data/codes on some newer vehicles so refer to your manual for instructions.

Lights

Inspect all lights and bulbs; replace burned out bulbs; periodically clean road grime from all lenses with a moistened cloth or towel. To prevent scratching, never use a dry rag.

Exhaust System

Your vehicle should be placed on a lift and the exhaust system examined for leaks. The trunk and floorboards should be inspected for small holes. Exhaust fumes can be deadly.

Tires

Worn tires will be of little use in winter weather. Examine tires for remaining tread life, uneven wearing, and cupping; check the sidewalls for cuts and nicks. Check tire pressure once a month. Let the tires “cool down” before checking the pressure. Rotate as recommended. Don’t forget your spare, and be sure the jack is in good condition.

Emergencies

Carry gloves, boots, blankets, flares, a small shovel, sand or kitty litter, tire chains, a flashlight, and a cell phone. Put a few “high-energy” snacks in your glove box.

For ASE’ Glove Box Tips, click here.

Article written by www.ase.com

Throughout the rest of this website you'll find in-depth articles describing in intricate detail how everything automotive works. On this page, I've simplified all that knowledge into a series of basic car maintenance tips, subdivided by category. Some tips have simple explanations right here while others link back to the articles in the rest of the site. If you can't find what you're looking for, try the search button at the end of the top menu. If you still can't find what you're looking for, or have a suggestion for something else I should cover, contact me using the contact button on the top menu bar.

Wheels and tires

Rotate your tires!

Every 5,000 miles or 8,000km, rotate your tires. Tire rotation.

Clean brake dust off regularly

Brake dust contains all sorts of nasty stuff. If you leave it too long, the combination of road grime, moisture and heat from your brakes will bake it on to your wheels. Brake dust normally clings to wheels with static electricity so a damp sponge and clean cold water is the best way to get it off.

Check your tire pressures

Check your tire pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tire pressures can affect fuel economy, handling and comfort. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to. Checking your tire pressure.

Check your tread depth

Bald, slick tires might be good for motor racing but they're no good on the road. Most tires come with tread wear bars built into them now - find one, examine it and if your tread is too low, replace your tires. Four new tires might seem expensive but they're cheaper than a fine or an accident. Tread wear bars.

Engine

Check your belts

At the front of your engine there will be a series of rubber drive belts that loop around various pulleys, driving everything from the alternator to the a/c compressor. Rubber perishes, more so in extreme conditions like those found in an operating engine bay. Get your timing belt and accessory drive belt checked every 25,000 miles, preferably replacing it every 50,000 miles. See the Fuel and Engine bible for information on interference engines and why checking your timing belts is a necessity, not a luxury: Interference engines

Fuel Economy

Check your tyre pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tire pressures can affect fuel economy very noticeably. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to. Checking your tire pressures

Checking your oil level

This is something everyone can do - it's quick and easy and it'll tell you if your engine needs oil. If the oil is too high or too low, it can cause trouble for your engine. To check the oil, park on level ground and wait until the engine has cooled down after driving, then locate the dipstick. Pull it out and wipe it clean, then push it all the way back in until the top of it is seated properly in the dip tube again. Wait a moment then pull it out again. Check the level of the oil. If it's between the high and low marks, you're fine. (If it's too low, add a little.) The high and low marks can be denoted by two dots, an "H" and "L" or a shaded area on the dipstick. The photos below show a Honda dipstick which has the two dots. Why not just read the level first time around? The first time you pull the dipstick out, it will have oil all over it and it will be difficult to tell where the level is. That's why you need to wipe it on a rag to get a clean dipstick, then dip it back into the oil to get a good reading. More information on why you should check your oil level is here Checking your oil level.

Checking your coolant level

Again, something everyone can do. The coolant is the other thing your engine cannot go without. Every engine is different but if you check your handbook you should find where the coolant reservoir is. It will normally be bolted to one side of the engine bay or the other, and be a white semi-transparent bottle. Wait until your engine is cool and take a look at it - the outside should have 'low' and 'high' markings on it and the level of coolant inside should be between the two.
Do not take the radiator cap off to check coolant levels. If the coolant system is still hot then it is still under pressure and the pressure release will burn you. Engine cooling systems.

Fuel / gas

Will higher octane or premium fuel give me better gas mileage and/or more power?

No. Sportier cars have higher compression engines which generate more power and require higher octane fuel to prevent detonation. That's where the myth of "premium = more power" came from. If your handbook says "regular", use regular. See octane and power for more information.

Bodywork / paint

Keeping your paint finish in good condition

Only choose superior car detailing supplies to keep your car's interior and exterior like new. There are plenty of decent quality waxes and polishes on the market today and if the last time you waxed or polished your car was over a decade ago, things have changed considerably since then. The wax and polish compounds are far more sophisticated both in terms of protection from fading, the look of the finish, and the ease of application. For example Turtle Wax Ice gets rid of that old problem of white wax residue. Is a clean car a vanity thing? Partly, yes, but if you park under a tree where birds help repaint your car with recycled blueberries, that guck will come off a lot easier if it falls on a waxed paint job.
Tip: If you find a bird has pooped on your car, wash it off as quick as you can. There are compounds in bird waste that can damage most car paint jobs. If you leave it in the sun and the poop bakes on, you could end up with a dull spot in the paint.

Electrical

Disconnecting and reconnecting your battery

If you're going to do any work on your car involving the electrical system, disconnect the battery first. To do this, loosen the connector for the negative/ground terminal first, and wiggle the terminal cap off. Use a wire-tie or similar to tie the cable back out of the way. If you need to take the battery out, you can now take off the positive connector.
Why negative then positive? If you disconnect the positive side of the battery first, the negative side is still connected to the entire car. If you drop a tool and it lands on the positive battery terminal and touches anything else on the car, you'll have an electrical short. By disconnecting the negative first, you're cutting off the return path for the current. Now, if a tool drops on to either of the battery terminals, it doesn't matter if it touches part of the chassis or not - there's no continuous path for the electrical current.
Reconnecting your battery. Connect the positive terminal first, and the negative second - the reverse of removal, and for the same reasons. When you slip the negative connector on, there will be a spark as it gets close and makes contact with the negative battery terminal. Don't be afraid of this - it's nothing to worry about. Make sure the terminal caps are done up nice and tight.

Check your battery terminals

Most modern cars run on a 12 volt negative ground electrical system. If your battery terminals or contacts aren't clean, you're making it more difficult for the current to pass around the electrical system. Remove the terminal caps as described above and clean each contact post with a wire brush to get a nice clean metal contact surface. Do the same to the terminal caps, then reattach them as described above.

Lights

One indicator or blinker is flashing faster than the other

When you indicate one way and the blinker flashes quicker than when you indicate the other way, it means one of the bulbs has blown. An auto parts store will be able to tell you what sort of bulb you need to replace it with and your manual should show you how to get at the indicator bulbs - they're different on every car.

Don't touch the glass when changing headlight bulbs

Most headlight bulbs now are filled with halogen and have special coatings on the outside of the glass. If you pick the bulb up by the glass with your fingers, you will leave trace amounts of oil and grease on the glass. When the bulb is used, that area of the glass will get hotter than the rest and it will eventually cause the bulb to crack. When changing headlight bulbs, only hold the metal bulb holder at the base, or make sure you're wearing rubber surgical / mechanic's gloves (clean ones) if you're touching the glass.

Dash / instrument warning lights

	The check engine light. Every new car now comes with OBD-II - On Board Diagnostics 2. This is a fault-registering system connected to sensors all over the car, engine, fuel and emissions system. When the check engine light comes on, it can mean many things. There are something like 4,000 unique OBD2 codes that can be stored. Handheld OBD2 diagnostic tools can be plugged in to the OBD2 port which is normally under the dash on the driver's side. These tools can read out the fault code and/or reset the system to contain no codes. Codes are split into two categories - historical/inactive, and active. The historical codes are lists of things that have been detected in the past but are no longer an issue, whilst the active codes are things that are a problem right now. Codes are subdivided into B-codes (body), C-codes (chassis) and the biggest list of all - P-codes (powertrain). P0440 OBD-II code. This is the most common code you'll find and it's the first thing you should check. P0440 is the code for Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction which covers a multitude of sins. The one thing it covers that you can check is your gas cap (petrol cap). Most new cars have a pressurised fuel system and vapour recovery loop. If you've filled up with petrol and not twisted the gas cap until it clicks, you've not sealed the fuel system. It won't pressurise and the OBD2 system will log a P0440 code. In fact, on a lot of cars, that code is so common they'll actually have some way of telling you to check the gas cap. In the Honda Element, for example, if a P0440 code is logged, the dash scrolls "CHECK GAS CAP" across the odometer display. So if you get a check engine light, check the gas cap first and see if the light goes off. Note : even if the light does go off, the code will likely still be stored in the OBD system and will show up next time it is checked. It wasn't the gas cap. If tightening the gas cap didn't do it, you'll need to find someone with an OBD2 diagnostics tool or reader. Some garages will charge you just for plugging the device in and reading the code. If they do, walk away. They're ripping you off. Better to find a garage or mechanic that will read the code and actually give you a diagnosis rather than just making you pay to find out a number. Smaller garages and local mechanics will normally do this for you for a small fee, and being independent, the diagnosis won't be predicated on you buying some expensive parts from a corporate chain. If you're a do-it-yourself type used to working from shop manuals, then a lot of places that will give you the diagnostic code for free. In America specifically, the Schuck's chain do free diagnostics checks (Checker, Kragen, Murray's, Advance) as well as AutoZone. Drop in - don't phone up and ask. A lot of times if you phone up they'll tell you it's $40. If you just turn up, more often than not they'll do it for nothing. In the UK I'm not sure who does - if you know, drop me a line. The alternative, if you're into maintaining your own vehicles, is to buy a reader and do it yourself.
	The service engine light / Maint Reqd light. This might indicate "Service", "Service Engine" or "Maint Reqd". It's an indicator that you're getting close to a scheduled maintenance interval. On some cars it's as simple as counting miles before it comes on, whilst on others it maps engine temperatures, oil temperatures, air temperatures and other indicators of probable stress to tell you when it might be time for new oil or a service. In most cars this can be overridden or reset by you, the owner. Your handbook will tell you if this is the case. If you take your car for a service, the garage should reset it for you. Typically this light will come on when you start your car, and then turn off again as part of the self-check. If it stays on for 10 seconds then turns off, it normally means you're within 500 miles of needing a service. If it flashes for 10 seconds, it normally means you've exceeded a recommended service interval.
	The electrical fault light. This warning light is different in every car but normally it looks like a picture of a battery, similar to the picture on the left here. You'll see it come on and go off when you start your engine as part of the car's self-test, but if this light comes on and stays on, it means the electrical charging system is no longer working properly. Think of it like a cellphone battery. If the cellphone is plugged into the charger, you can use it indefinitely, but when you disconnect it from the charger, there's a limited amount of time before your battery runs out. It's exactly the same in your car, only bigger. Every car has an alternator - the charger - and a 12v battery used to supply power to the electrical system. If the alternator becomes faulty or the drive belt to it snaps, then it will not be able to do its job. The longer you drive, the more your car will use up the remaining juice in the battery and eventually the engine will die. This almost always requires a new or refurbished alternator.
	Brake warning light 1 Most cars nowadays have a brake warning light on the dash. Its purpose is to alert you that something is wrong in the braking system somewhere. If it comes on, check your owner's manual to find out its meaning. The brake warning light doesn't have a standard meaning; it could be used for multiple purposes. For example, the same light may be used to show that the hand brake (parking brake for the Americans amongst you) is on. If that's the case and you're driving, you ought to have noticed the smell of burning brake dust by now. The light can also indicate that the fluid in the master cylinder is low. Each manufacturer has a different use and standard for this light. Which is nice. Because it would be such a drag if the same indicator meant the same thing in every vehicle.
	Brake warning light 2 If you've got an ABS-equipped car, you also have a second light - the ABS light. If it comes on, get it seen to as soon as possible. It means the ABS computer has diagnosed that something is amiss in the system. It could be something as simple as dirt in one of the sensors, or something as costly as an entire ABS unit replacement. Either way, if that light is on, then you, my friend, have got 1970's brakes. It's important to note that this light normally comes on when you start the car and then switches off a few seconds later. If it blinks, throbs, flashes or in any other way draws your attention to itself, then take note. It's not doing that just to please itself. Compared to a steady light, a blinking ABS light normally indicates something more serious. In some cases it could be as bad as "you have no brakes at all."
	Coolant warning light This is normally the coolant level warning light. If this comes on it means that the level of coolant in your radiator is low and needs topping up. DO NOT OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT! The coolant system is pressurised and it could easily release pressure and spray you with boiling coolant. Do it when the engine is cold. Top up the system with either a pre-mixed coolant bought from a shop, or with distilled water. Don't use tap water - the mineral deposits in it boil out in the cooling system and calcium gets depositted around the inside of the radiator making it less efficient (which will eventually cause it to fail). It's always best to use pre-mixed coolant, or to mix your own rather than using neat water. The coolant mixture behaves as an antifreeze in winter as well as a corrosion-inhibitor to stop your engine rusting from the inside out.
	Oil warning light Typically this light will come on if your oil pressure is too low. Low oil pressure is serious and if you continue to drive with this light on, eventually your engine will die. Low oil pressure can be caused by a failed oil pump, a blocked oil filter or strainer in the sump, or by low oil levels - for example if your engine is burning oil. Either way, you need to get it fixed, and fast. Low oil pressure is A Bad Thing and your engine won't thank you for leaving this problem untreated.

Read more: http://www.carbibles.com/maintenancetips.html#ixzz1ZBGkcFLF

Article by www.Carbibles.com

Cars are so reliable these days; it's easy to forget that you can still have an emergency.

Here's our Top 10 list of the things that should cause you to pull your car over immediately.

(We know, this was supposed to be only 10 reasons to pull over immediately, but we thought of a few more. So sue us!)

12. Losing Something 'Essential'

We're sure this has happened to you. You're driving along and you reach into your glove box to grab your Sleepy LaBeef CD. As you're fumbling to open the CD case with one hand, the CD pops out and falls on the floor, under your legs. What do you do? Too many people bend down while they're driving and try to find Sleepy's greatest hits. Don't do it. Remember that at 65 mph every second your head spends down between your knees your car moves almost 100 feet without a driver! Besides, if your head is down there when you crash it could end up firmly implanted somewhere embarrassing. One might even argue that it already is in that dark place if you engage in this risky behavior.

So if you drop something — a CD, your keys, your phone, a french fry — either let it sit there until you get to your destination or pull over before you fish it out.

11. Cabin Chaos

Sometimes things get exciting inside a car. The kids, who normally slap and pinch each other suddenly pull out kitchen knives. Or your Labrador sees a cute little poodle crossing the street and jumps into your lap to get a closer look. Or your mother-in-law announces that she's just filled her Depends. Don't try to solve problems like these and drive at the same time. You can't. It's tempting to try to reach the kids in the backseat and separate them or toss the dog into the backseat or help your mother-in-law ... nevermind. It's much wiser to pull over and get things back under control. Then get back on the road.

10. Medical Emergency

If you think that you may be experiencing a medical problem, pull over right away. We've heard too many stories about people who have all the signs of a stroke or heart attack, yet they decide to try to "make it home" before calling for help. This is a recipe for killing yourself and other people on the road. If you have any reason to believe you're getting seriously ill, pull over and call for help. That's what 911 is for.

Even less deadly medical problems can make us lousy drivers. So consider pulling over and resting if you have something in your eye, a migraine headache or intense heartburn. Pull over if you can't sit still because you need to use the bathroom (or the bushes next to the road) or if you drop cigar ash between your legs. Anything that causes you to worry more about some part of your body than what's happening on the road in front of you is a good reason to pull over and stop driving until the problem is solved.

9. Lack of Visibility

We tend to forget that when we're driving we're piloting a 3,000-pound projectile. And when you're going 65 mph, you're covering 96 feet in one second. It'll take you 316 feet to come to a complete stop under ideal conditions. For that reason, it's good to be able to see!

Your visibility can suddenly become impaired for all kinds of reasons: a sudden downpour, thick fog, broken windshield wipers, a big splash of mud and an empty windshield washer reservoir, a flying projectile that cracks your windshield or a hood latch that breaks and sends the hood flying up while you're driving. And this doesn't even count the most common source of poor visibility — failure to clean off the windshield when it's snowy or icy. Bottom line: If you can't see well for any reason, pull over right away and either fix the problem or wait until the weather changes before getting back on the road.

8. Any Loud or Sudden Noise

Unless you're driving Tommy's MG, your car is not supposed to make any loud, sudden or unidentifiable noises. A loud or sudden noise can be benign. It could be a plastic milk jug that you ran over. On the other hand, it could also mean that your engine just launched a spark plug into low-Earth orbit.

Unless it's a milk jug, it indicates that something has just changed. It's changed from one piece to several pieces or changed from attached to unattached. Either way, it's best to pull over and try to figure it out.

7. Temperature Light or Oil Light

There are very few things that can wreck a car in less than two minutes. There's a direct hit by a meteor or a Caterpillar D9. Fortunately, both are very uncommon. But there are two common things that can ruin cars — severe overheating and loss of oil pressure. Your dashboard has idiot lights for both of these conditions. They're talking to you, pal.

If either of those lights comes on, don't try to make it home before investigating. Driving with no oil pressure can wreck a car's internal parts in minutes. Or less. Severe overheating can blow your head gasket or warp or crack your cylinder head or block just as quickly.

A customer of ours had the oil light come on and drove home before calling us. We asked her, "Why did you try to get home?" She said she felt safer at home. That's understandable, we said, but that feeling of safety just cost you $7,000! If you see the oil light or hot light, unless it's unsafe to do so, pull over and call for help.

6. Sudden Change in Handling

If something changes in your car's handling and you can feel it in your steering wheel, chances are it is serious. It could be a sudden, extreme change like a tire blowing out or a wheel about to fall off. Or you might notice that the steering wheel is suddenly wobbling or tugging in one direction. These are all potentially serious problems that require pulling over.

Not every change in handling is dire. A small wobble could be something relatively minor like a lost wheel weight or a bad tire. It could be as simple as a change in road surface. Here's the catch: If you try to make an on-the-fly diagnosis, you risk driving over a guard rail and onto a nearby putting green. Or much worse. There are a lot of crucial pieces in the front end of the car. Because they're attached to the front wheels you can often feel a change in the steering wheel. Pay attention to it.

5. Steam/Water Vapor

Steam is usually an indication that coolant, which is under pressure, is escaping from your car's cooling system. If it's leaking slowly and hitting an exhaust pipe or something else that's hot, it may not be an emergency. But if it's leaking quickly, you can overheat the engine and do serious damage to your engine and your wallet. If your engine is overheating, you can sometimes save yourself thousands of dollars by pulling over before permanent damage is done.

Don't twist off the radiator cap right away to have a look-see. If your car is overheating, or even if it's not, the coolant is under very high pressure and can burn your face until it looks as bad as my brother's. So if you're not mechanically inclined, pull over, turn off your engine and find a good, local garage that can lend a hand.

4. Smell

We each know what our car smells like: Mostly, it smells like us, which is why it offends other people. Or it may smell like some combination of new-car smell, wet dog, old juice boxes and maybe grandma. If you notice a new smell — especially if you know it didn't come from you — it's best to pull over and investigate it. It could be relatively benign such as when you drive over a plastic grocery bag and it sticks to your hot catalytic converter or a meatball sub that slid under the passenger seat. But it could be something more serious like wire insulation burning or a gas leak. So if you notice a smell that's unusual and you can't identify it, it's best to pull over and make sure it's nothing getting ready to cause a disaster.

Your two primary concerns are gasoline, which you should never smell in the passenger compartment once you're moving, and something that's smoldering and could catch fire. Smoldering electrical wires are the most common source of fire. Once you pull over, you should investigate the smell carefully. And if you're at all concerned, call for help.

3. Smoke

There are lots of reasons why smoke might be issuing forth from your vehicle. But almost all of them are bad. Some are not emergencies such as when engine oil is dripping onto a hot exhaust pipe since a small amount of oil can produce a lot of smoke. But other times where there's smoke, there's fire. Or there soon will be. If you see smoke, it's best to pull over and check it out.

2. Flames

If you see flames spouting from anywhere in your car, pull over immediately. Not only is your car beginning to turn into automotive flambé before your eyes, but there's a risk to your life, as well. Even if the flames aren't burning you, per se, the fumes may be doing you in. So unless you're a trained firefighter, the best thing to do is look out for your own safety. Pull over, lace up your Pro Keds, get a safe distance away from your car and call 911. Then, and only then, do we advise pulling out your long, pronged fork and roasting marshmallows.

1. Blue Lights

Remember what happens if you don't pull over when you see blue lights.

One final note: What does it mean to "pull over immediately"? It means pull over as quickly as it's safe to do so. Don't swerve across five lanes of traffic. Check around you. Check the side of the road to see if there's a place to pull off. And then pull over.

More and more express auto service chains are popping up and most motorists are turning to them for saving money on repairs. If you decide to use these services then make sure you know the seven steps of fixing your car with them on a budget.

Choosing a chain store
Doing research on deciding which store has the most positive feed back is dependent upon where you live. Choose a store that has a reliable service and few price increases. Choose a store that has long termed experienced mechanics.

Sticking with one chain
Don’t jump from place to another, not all stores carry the same brands and parts. Sticking with one store will become familiar with your car and know how to service when you bring it in.

Know your mechanic
Developing a friendship with the mechanic will help knowing your car is in the right hands. Ask for mechanic who gave your car a great service. And stick with that mechanic. In the long run that mechanic will know what to do if your car develops problems.

Pricing
Do research on the best priced parts for your car, if you can afford it, request those parts for your car. The mechanic will install them and the store will probably charge an extra fee. But only do so if you can afford it.

Invest
Even though most chain stores offer great deals. Do invest in more then the above average price range of a part. Knowing that you want only the best for your car will also save you money on having to replace cheap parts over and over again.

Schedule a regular maintenance
Always make a date on your calendar to have routine check-ups on your car. Doing so will cost you less money in the long for any inconvenient major repairs.

For sure by the above 7-steps it will be fun and a comfortable drive saving yours and your beloved ones lives. And certainly you will save a lot of dollars compared with the charges of your local car sales dealer. Remember if you watch for the above checks it will increase life of your car. Tires, Battery, Oil and water are very important to be looked after at every time. Especially when you are not driving for long time.
Try to get the original parts even if there are a bit expensive in price.

 

These tips can help you determine whether your vehicle has a loose gas cap or serious engine problems

You're driving along in your car or truck and suddenly a yellow light illuminates on your dash telling you to check or service your engine. If you're like most car owners, you have little idea about what that light is trying to tell you or exactly how you should react.

Call it the most misunderstood indicator on your dashboard, the "check engine" light can mean many different things, from a loose gas cap to a seriously misfiring engine.

"It doesn't mean you have to pull the car over to the side of the road and call a tow truck. It does mean you should get the car checked out as soon as possible," says Dave Cappert of the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence, a Virginia-based organization that tests and certifies auto technicians.

Ignore the warning, and you could end up damaging expensive components. It also can be a sign that your car is getting poor fuel economy and emitting higher levels of pollutants.

What the Light Means

The "check engine" light is part of your car's so-called onboard diagnostics (OBD) system. Since the 1980s, computers increasingly have controlled and monitored vehicle performance, regulating such variables as engine speed (RPM), fuel mixture, and ignition timing. In some cars, the computer also tells the automatic transmission when to shift.

When it finds a problem in the electronic-control system that it can't correct, the computer turns on a yellow warning indicator that's labeled "check engine," "service engine soon" or "check powertrain." Or the light may be nothing more than a picture of an engine, known as the International Check Engine Symbol, perhaps with the word "Check." In addition to turning on the light, the computer stores a "trouble code" in its memory that identifies the source of the problem, such as a malfunctioning sensor or a misfiring engine. The code can be read with an electronic scan tool or a diagnostic computer, standard equipment in auto repair shops. There are also a number of relatively inexpensive code readers that are designed for do-it-yourselfers.

Manufacturers originally used the OBD system to help technicians pinpoint and troubleshoot malfunctions. But the systems now are required under federal laws governing automotive emissions. Although larger trucks have been exempt from the requirement, that quickly is changing.

"The 'check engine' light is reserved only for powertrain problems that could have an impact on the emissions systems," says John Van Gilder, General Motors' lead OBD development engineer.

Exactly what the OBD system looks for depends on the make, model and year. The original systems varied widely in their capabilities. Some did little more than check whether the various electronic sensors and actuators were hooked up and working.

That changed by 1996, when, under OBD II regulations, carmakers were required to install a much more sophisticated system that essentially acts like a built-in state emissions testing station. The computer monitors and adjusts dozens of components and processes. For example, it continually samples exhaust emissions as they come out of the engine and again when they leave the catalytic converter, a device that removes carbon monoxide and hydrocarbon pollutants from the exhaust. The system also monitors your car's fuel system to ensure that gasoline vapors are not escaping into the atmosphere through a leak or even a loose or missing gas cap. In most cases, if a problem occurs, the computer will wait to see if it corrects itself before turning on the light. Modern OBD II systems are so thorough that state testing centers increasingly are checking for any stored trouble codes and foregoing the traditional tailpipe emissions test.

Some states are considering an advanced OBD system that would allow them to do away with emissions testing. If the "check engine" light comes on, the system automatically would send a remote signal to state officials, who would contact motorists who don't have the problem corrected within a reasonable amount of time. Privacy advocates are criticizing the idea as being too intrusive. Depending on the system, officials might be able to trace where the vehicle had been. Proponents say the system would free motorists from the time and expense of having to undergo annual or biennial emission testing, and it would help ensure that emission-related problems are detected and fixed more quickly.

Remote diagnostics already can be found on GM vehicles equipped with the OnStar communications system. When the "check engine" light goes on, GM car owners can notify an OnStar representative, who can read the trouble code and provide advice.

What to do

If your "check engine" light illuminates don't react like one Connecticut motorist, who simply poured an extra quart of engine oil into her 2002 Toyota Corolla. Although extreme situations, such as low oil pressure or an overheating engine, might trigger a "check engine" light, your dashboard has other lights and gauges to warn you about those problems and probably a lot sooner. The best advice is to read your owner's manual beforehand and learn the purpose of the "check engine" light and every other gauge and warning indicator on your dashboard. Periodically, you also should test the "check engine" light and other dashboard warning lights. Usually, you can do this by turning the key to the key-on/engine-off position. Consult the owner's manual for more information. Replace any bulbs that aren't working.

If the "check engine" light illuminates, it will either blink or remain constant, depending on the problem. Either way, you should have the vehicle checked by a mechanic, although a blinking light or, on some cars, a red light instead of a yellow/orange light indicates a problem that needs immediate attention. In late-model cars, a blinking light usually indicates an engine misfire so severe that unburned fuel is being dumped into the exhaust system, where it can quickly damage the catalytic converter, requiring an expensive repair. If that happens, you should reduce power and have the car or truck looked at as soon as possible. If the light is steady, the problem is not an emergency, but you should schedule an appointment as soon as possible. Today's automotive computers often try to compensate when there's a problem; so you may not notice deterioration in performance, even though your fuel mileage is suffering and your vehicle is emitting unacceptable levels of hydrocarbons and other pollutants.

"The customer is really, in the long run, potentially hurting their pocket book by leaving that light on and ignoring it," says Jim Collins, a national training team leader for Ford Motor Company. In some extreme cases, the car's computer may reduce power for you, as it tries to limit the risk of damage.

If the check-engine light comes on, here are some tips on what you should do:

• Look for a serious problem that requires immediate attention. Check your dashboard gauges and lights for indications of low oil pressure or overheating. These conditions mean you should pull over and shut off the engine as soon as you can find a safe place to do so. On some cars, a yellow "check engine" means investigate the problem, while a red "check engine" means stop right now.
• Try tightening your gas cap. This often solves the problem. Keep in mind that it may take several trips before the light resets. Some vehicles have a separate indicator that warns of a loose gas cap before the condition sets off the "check engine" light.
• Reduce speed and load. If the "check engine" light is blinking or you notice any serious performance problems, such as a loss of power, reduce your speed and try to reduce the load on the engine. For example, it would be a good idea to stop towing a trailer. Have the car checked as soon as possible to prevent expensive damage.
• Contact OnStar, if available. If you have a 1997 or later General Motors vehicle equipped with OnStar and an active OnStar subscription, contact an advisor who can read the trouble code remotely and advise you about what to do.
• Have the code read and the problem fixed. If you want to diagnose the malfunction yourself, you can buy a scan tool at most auto parts stores. Prices range from about $40 to several hundred, depending on the model and the features. The tools come with instructions on how to hook them up and decipher the codes. But unless you have a good knowledge of automotive diagnostics, you're probably better off taking the vehicle to a professional. Some automotive parts stores will read and interpret the code for you without charge. Unless there is an easy fix, they may simply refer you to a mechanic.
• Don't go for a state emissions test. In a late-model car, an illuminated "check engine" light probably is a sure sign your car will fail the test. In some states, it's an automatic failure, even if the problem was nothing more than a loose gas cap. By the way, don't bother trying to fool the inspection station by disconnecting the battery or using any other method to erase the trouble code and turn off the "check engine" light. Your vehicle's computer will let the inspection station know that its codes have been erased, and you'll just have to go back again.

Article by  ConsumerReports.org

Expert mechanics reveal common auto repair shop mistakes car owners make

CARSON, Calif., Aug. 24, 2011 /PRNewswire/ -- There are common mistakes car owners make when it comes to visiting an auto repair shop that can quickly turn a good car repair experience into a bad one, according to a recent AutoMD.com interview with independent repair shop mechanics and input from our team of in-house auto repair experts. AutoMD.com reveals these mistakes while offering additional insider perspective straight from mechanics themselves to help car owners make the best of their next auto repair shop visit.  

Top Five Auto Repair Shop Mistakes Car Owners Make according to AutoMD.com

Mistake #1:  Failing to communicate properly

According to the mechanics interviewed by AutoMD.com, the better you're able to communicate your car's symptoms, the easier it is for the mechanic to diagnose and fix the problem. Write down what you hear, feel, see, and smell before you arrive and keep a log of exactly when the symptoms occur (when you're braking or when you're driving over a certain speed, for example). Also, note the location and frequency of the symptoms, and if any repairs were done on the vehicle recently. Many times a problem is related to the last repair. 

Mistake #2:  Setting unrealistic expectations

We spoke with a mechanic from the Greater Boston, Massachusetts area who has over 20 years of experience and who told us: "I've had customers schedule a vehicle inspection on the same day they are leaving on a family trip. If we find the car needs brakes, we try to accommodate them the best we can but some customers expect us to fix their car in an hour, not realizing how long the job actually takes or the other customers that we are also trying to accommodate."

Even if it's a relatively quick and easy repair job, understand your car may be at the end of a long list of cars needing repairs. Ask how long the job may take and be prepared to have a ride to and from the shop.  Be mindful of the fact that your mechanic may need extra time to get the job done, and to get it done right.

Mistake #3:  Dropping off a dirty or loaded vehicle

Contrary to popular belief, most mechanics like to work in a clean environment, and that includes the vehicle they are working on. Clean your car before you take it to the shop. Your mechanic will appreciate it, and you never know, it may affect the service you receive.  The mechanic in Boston we spoke to said, "Cars and trucks with many items left in the back like strollers, golf clubs, construction materials, tools, etc. can affect vehicle performance and make some repairs more difficult to do. Sometimes we have to remove these items to get to the failed part, perform a specific repair like a wheel alignment, or even put it on a lift!"

Be sure to save your mechanic and yourself valuable time by cleaning out your car before you visit the repair shop.

Mistake #4:  Making yourself unavailable

Good repair shops are extremely busy and coordinating all the jobs to maximize the day can be difficult. If the mechanic or service writer is unable to contact you to authorize a repair, the vehicle sits. Make sure the contact numbers you leave are correct and you respond promptly.  

Remember, a cooperative, friendly and respectful attitude is usually always reciprocated.

Mistake #5:  Hovering over the mechanic

Virtually every mechanic interviewed by AutoMD.com expressed concern for customers hovering while they work. "I once had a customer who watched me like a hawk and followed my every move," said a 20-year mechanic from Westminster, California. "If I bent down, he bent down, if I went right, he went right.  Finally, I went to the other side of the car and when he peered over, I humorously said 'peek-a-boo'."  I don't mind customers watching, but it's extremely distracting and can actually inhibit me from doing my job properly."

While it's appropriate to stand with your mechanic while explaining the problem, it's inappropriate, distracting and sometimes downright dangerous to hover over him/her while he/she works. Stand back and let your mechanic do his/her job.

Article by AutoMD.com

If you are in an accident or your car breaks down, safety should be your first concern. Getting out of the car at a busy intersection or on a highway to change a tire or check damage from a fender bender is probably one of the worst things you can do. The Insurance Information Institute (I.I.I.) recommends the following precautions when your car breaks down:

1. Never get out of the vehicle to make a repair or examine the damage on a busy highway. Get the vehicle to a safe place before getting out. If you've been involved in an accident, motion the other driver to pull up to a safe spot ahead.
2. If you can't drive the vehicle, it may be safer to stay in the vehicle and wait for help or use a cell phone to summon help. Standing outside the vehicle in the flow of traffic, under most circumstances, is a bad idea.
3. Carry flares or triangles to use to mark your location once you get to the side of the road. Marking your vehicle's location to give other drivers advance warning of your location can be critical. Remember to put on your hazard lights!
4. In the case of a blowout or a flat tire, move the vehicle to a safer place before attempting a repair - even if it means destroying the wheel getting there. The cost of a tire, rim or wheel is minor compared to endangering your safety. Tips provided by the Insurance Information Institute, Inc. (http://www.insurance.info)

After many years of fuel injection "service," I think that some service technicians still misunderstand the process of proper fuel system handling. Much has been said over the years in regard to when and how to perform injector cleaning. Some manufacturers have suggested methods of cleaning while others have issued bulletins to disregard any cleaning at all.

For this reason, I offer the following suggestions on the proper process for injector service on today's vehicles.

To begin, all engines using fuel injection do in fact require some slightly different fuel system maintenance! The normal wear and tear with today's underhood temperatures and changes in gasoline quality suggests some buildup of olefin wax, dirt, water and many other additives. Unique to each engine is an air control design that also may suggest different levels of carbon deposits, such as oil control or just the location of the component or control device itself.

To simplify the approach, I will use the word "service" since the phrase "injector cleaning" is misleading as to the real function needed to maintain the vehicles of today!

Fuel Injetor System Service
(Note the words "system" and "service" in the subtitle, and not "cleaning!")

The proper steps in fuel injector system service are:

• Check fuel pump operating pressure and volume.
• Test pressure regulator for operation and leakage.
• Flush entire fuel rail and upper fuel injector screens to include pressure regulator.
• Clean fuel injectors.
• Decarbon engine assembly.
• Clean throttle plate and idle air control (IAC) passages.
• Check minimum air flow rate and adjust if needed.
• Relearn onboard computer.

All eight steps may be performed using one of the "two-line" fuel injector service units. (Carbon Clean, Injector Test, DeCarbon and Motor-Vac, to name a few.)

Check fuel pump operating pressure and volume
The missing link here is volume, as most working technicians assume that if the pressure is correct, the volume is OK also! By hooking up a fuel pressure tester to the fuel rail inlet and return, and using the pressure side feed t-Ed into the fuel unit, we can quickly test the fuel pressure with engine running but also at the same time test the volume of the pump by stealing fuel into our holding tank (one pint in 30 seconds is the usual specification). When proper volume is flowed into the tank, we would shut down the engine and change hose connections to allow the machine to be put in control of the fuel supply system. The two line system would be attached to inlet and return on the fuel rail, with the vehicle's onboard system being "looped" and returning fuel to the tank. This prevents disabling of the factory unit.

Test pressure regulator for operation and leakage
At this time, the regulator would be tested for operational pressure and proper regulation including leakage. (This works well as the operator has total control of rail pressure with the unit control valve.)

Points to Ponder:
 

• Good pressure doesn't mean proper volume! Example: A clogged filter may test OK on pressure, but restriction may not allow proper volume under load!
• There is some logic to using the vehicle's gasoline to service the system as opposed to a can of shop gasoline that has been around for some time!
• Pressure regulators do fail and a lot more of them don't properly shut off the fuel, causing higher-than-normal pump wear and shorter life!

Flush entire fuel rail and upper fuel injector screens to include pressure regulator
At this time, I would suggest raising the input pressure to a point above the regulator setting to allow a constant flow of fuel through the inlet pressure side of the system - through the fuel rail and out the open fuel pressure regulator. In most cases, the apply pressure is 75 psi to 90 psi but will be maintained by the presence of a regulator. At this point, a cleaning chemical is added to the fuel mixture at a 5-1 mixture and allowed to flow through the system for 15 minutes to 30 minutes. (I have some GM dealers that use one hour per vehicle with great re-sults!) Results are best on a hot engine, and fuel supply is looped with the vehicle's engine not running.

Points to Ponder:
 

• This flush is the "fix" that most vehicles needed to begin. The difference is that you are effectively removing the deposits to a remote tank and filter vs. attempting to soften and blow through the upper screens.
• Most injectors use a 10 micron final screen.
• A 25 percent restriction in the upper screen would increase the injector on-time approximately 25 percent!
• Injectors have a working "duty cycle" like a welder. Extending the duty cycle equals a shortened life of the coil or bobbin.
• Each engine has a "pattern failure" in the system. Example: Buick V-6 engines have problem injectors on the rail curves and the injector next to the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve. Those three injectors will always show a restriction to flow first! Cylinder No. 5 is the pattern failure on 4.9L Ford in-line 6s. (Study the rail design and look for the problem areas.)

Clean fuel injectors
At this point in the "service," we start the engine and adjust the output pressure somewhat closer to regulator pressure or somewhat lower. Adjusting lower will cause the pulse width to open up somewhat longer and allow the injectors to be cleaned. Slow speed (idle) position will take a longer time frame and operating temperature will be reached. This is one place where time is required. Did you ever wonder how a can of injector cleaner could clean the entire injectors in nine minutes? (It can't!) Remember, not only do we want clean injectors, but we also want the chemical to decarbon the engine valves, pistons and O2 sensor.

Points to Ponder:
 

• Time is required to perform this service.
• Internal pintle cleaning is performed during this cycle.
• Fuel control is always in direct response to O2 response. Example: Slow O2 = slow fuel control = poor performance.

Decarbon engine assembly
On most vehicles, the injector spray is going to help the decarboning process. On others, we may need to enhance the operation with an external addition of mixture through PCV hoses, throttle plates or idle air controls.

Points to Ponder:
 

• Most technicians (especially very young ones) think carbon is a 1990s problem. The older guys (especially the very old ones) remember throwing rice through a flathead at 2500 rpm and watching the black specs fly out of the exhaust. This is still a problem in the '90s (although rice is not suggested). We have a lower fuel volatility, and in some cases too high of a compression may cause a no-start situation.
• Proper compression = 14.6 x compression ratio.

Clean throttle plate and idle air control passages
Just this "service" alone on most late model engines will show a manifold vacuum increase of up to two. You may stop the engine and clean the areas as needed, but my suggestion is to use an extra hand-held fuel injector hooked in parallel with the pressure hose along with a pulser to allow a cleaning of throttle plates with the same chemical as the injectors are running on. This has proven to work very well as air drawn into IAC passages on a running engine will clean the passages without IAC removal. Neat trick!

Points to Ponder:
 

• A manifold vacuum increase tells the technician that the engine "liked" the service.
• Using the hand-held injector usually will lower a General Motors IAC count from 40 to 15 without touching a thing! (Think about this.)

Check minimum air flow rate and adjust if needed
Most vehicles' "stall" problems are due to a misadjusted throttle plate or incorrect minimum air rate. Check service manuals for specs.

Points to Ponder
 

• ACDelco makes a set of small "tuneup" booklets that do an excellent job of covering minimum air rate adjustment procedures.

Relearn the vehicle's onboard computer
Some vehicles may have been running in such a poor state of operation that the onboard computer may need to be relearned! Consult the OEM-suggested relearn procedures per make.

Fuel injection system service is complete! This "service" usually takes approximately one hour for the vehicle to run out of fuel and the entire service to be performed. The good thing is that the technician may do other services while this is being performed! Some of my customers put in a set of plugs while the engine is flushing or change the fuel filter or do the brakes. Charges are up to the individual shop, but the performance gained is absolutely amazing.

In reality, all you are doing is exactly what should be done with mileage, and that is restoring the system to original operations.
 

By Jim Linder

1.Replace/Tighten Your Gas Cap - Fuel evaporates through gas caps with broken or weak seals, potentially reducing your efficiency by 2 percent, polluting the air and allowing contaminants and dirt into your fuel. Click here for Guide on How to Replace a Fuel Tank Cap.
2.Inflate/Change Your Tires - Tires that are not properly inflated have a higher rolling resistance, which reduces efficiency. By keeping your tires inflated to the proper pressure, you can improve your gas mileage by up to 3.3 percent. By replacing your tires with efficient 'low rolling resistance' tires, individual vehicles could save up to 6 percent of gasoline use. Click here for Guide on How to Check Tire Pressure.
3.Change Your Oil - By using only energy conserving or synthetic motor oil, you can reduce engine friction, improving efficiency by 1 - 2 percent. Click here for Guide on How to Change your Oil.
4.Replace Spark Plugs - Misfiring spark plugs can reduce fuel efficiency by as much as 30 percent, or $.75/gallon. Replacing them improves combustion and reduces emissions. Click here for Guide on How to Replace Spark Plugs.
5.Replace the Engine Air Filter - Replacing a clogged air filter on an older car with a carbureted engine may improve fuel economy 2 to 6 percent under normal replacement conditions, or up to 14 percent if the filter is so clogged that it significantly affects drivability. Click here for Guide on How to Replace an Air Filter.
Top Five Habits-to-Change for a Fuel Efficient Summer Drive

1.Cruise Don't Speed - Each 5 mph you drive over 60 mph is like paying an additional $0.24 per gallon for gas. Take advantage of cruise control to smooth out your throttling and keep your speed steady and fuel-efficient (but only on flat terrain, if you are driving hills, skip the cruise control, and keep the speed down).
2.Lighten the Lead Foot - Rapid acceleration and braking can increase fuel burn by as much as 40 percent and makes toxic emissions five times higher - remember that a significant percentage of the energy needed to power your vehicle is burned up in acceleration. Slowly increasing your speed and leaving more room to slow down while braking will reduce your fuel burn and improve your gas mileage.
3.Avoid Idling - Turn off your engine if you are stopped for more than 30 seconds. When you idle your engine, you are getting no MPG, adding to pollution and wasting money. Two minutes of idling uses up one mile of gasoline, and ten seconds of idling uses more fuel than turning off the engine and restarting it.
4.Remove Excess Weight - Your car is not a storage unit! An extra 100 pounds can reduce fuel economy by 1 to 2 percent.
5.Turn on the Ventilator/Turn off the AC/Roll up the Windows - The most efficient air is the air that comes in through your flow-through ventilator. Air conditioning or open windows (because of the drag) make your vehicle less fuel-efficient. But, for hot summer drives, turn off your A/C and roll down your windows when driving around the neighborhood or in city traffic, and do exactly the opposite on the highway - driving fast with the windows open can burn more fuel than AC.
For the Serious DIYer

For the serious DIYer, or the car owner willing to spend a little more to go the extra mile, consider the following: Engine Tune-up to make sure your engine is running efficiently (Click here for Guide on How to Perform a Basic Engine Tune-Up); Replace Oxygen Sensor as a faulty oxygen sensor can wreak havoc with your gas mileage (Click here for Guide on How to Replace an Oxygen Sensor); Upgrade Air Intake System with a cold air intake kit increasing the amount of oxygen for combustion; and Improve Aerodynamics by removing roof and bike racks and (for trucks) installing a Tonneau cover to reduce drag.
 

by AutoMD.com

Alan will start posting here soon. Don't forget to check back here in a few days!